A Guide to Spinel: The Gemstone to Know After Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald

Not long ago, a visitor from London messaged us a few hours before her flight home. She wanted a companion stone for a blue zircon she already owned, and her wish list read like a collector's: colour-change spinels, lavender spinels, grey spinels, chrome tourmalines. She left with a purple spinel that afternoon. I mention her because she is typical of something I see more and more: people who know their gemstones increasingly arrive asking for spinel by name. Here is why, and what to look for if you are curious about it yourself.

What is spinel?

Spinel is a natural gemstone in its own right, with its own chemistry and crystal structure, not a variety of anything else. It forms in the same geological settings as ruby and sapphire, which is why for centuries the two were confused. Some of the most famous "rubies" in history are actually spinels — the Black Prince's Ruby set in the front of Britain's Imperial State Crown is the best-known example. It is hard (8 on the Mohs scale), durable enough for everyday rings, and takes a beautiful polish. Since 2016 it has also been an official birthstone for August.

Why collectors love it

Three reasons come up again and again in our studio.

The first is colour. Spinel covers an unusually wide range: vivid reds and hot pinks, soft lavenders and violets, steely greys, and the rare, intense cobalt blues. The greys and lavenders in particular have a quiet, modern feel that suits people who find classic sapphire blue a little expected.

The second is that most spinel is untreated. Heating is routine and accepted for sapphire and ruby, but the great majority of spinel on the market is exactly as it came out of the ground. For buyers who value that, it matters. (We tell you about any treatment on any stone we sell, spinel or otherwise.)

The third is brilliance. Spinel is singly refractive, which gives a well-cut stone a crisp, clean sparkle — one reason it was mistaken for ruby for so long.

Where spinel comes from

The historic source is Myanmar, where spinel has been mined alongside ruby for centuries. Today fine spinel also comes from Tanzania, whose Mahenge region became famous for glowing pink-red stones; from Vietnam, the main source of cobalt-blue spinel; from Sri Lanka; and from Tajikistan, whose ancient mines supplied the "balas rubies" of medieval crowns. Origin affects character and price, and we are always happy to explain what a particular stone's origin means for it.

Is spinel a good alternative to sapphire or ruby?

Yes, and it is an honest one: you are not buying an imitation, but a different fine gemstone with its own history. In general, spinel of comparable size and quality is more accessible than ruby or sapphire, which is why it lets people reach for a larger or more vivid stone within the same budget. The exceptions are the rarest colours — top reds and true cobalt blues command serious prices of their own.

What to look for

Colour comes first: look for saturation and evenness, and see the stone in daylight as well as indoors. Then clarity — fine spinel is often very clean to the eye. Then cut, which decides how much of that brilliance actually reaches you. For a significant stone, ask for an independent laboratory report; for spinel, this confirms the identity and whether it is natural and untreated.

Buying spinel in Hong Kong

Because we cut in our own workshops and buy rough directly, we often have loose spinels that never appear on the website, and we can source a specific colour or size for a bespoke piece. If you are visiting Hong Kong, you can see stones side by side in our studio in Central and take advantage of Hong Kong's lack of sales tax. If you already know roughly what you want — colour, size, budget — tell us before you arrive and we will pre-select stones for you, which makes even a short visit worthwhile. Our Grey Spinel & Ruby Three-Stone Ring is a good example of how a grey spinel sits next to a classic red.

Whether you are choosing a first coloured stone or adding to a collection, spinel rewards a closer look. Message us on WhatsApp or begin a bespoke conversation and we will help you find the one that feels right.

— Pawanya